Whoops, this trip report came out mammoth – I had such a fun trip I got a bit excited writing it! But if you feel like dreaming of a holiday for a few moments, or are thinking of doing it some time, then read on…
Day 1 Muswellbrook to Phipps Cutting
So. Things didn’t quite get off to the start I planned. The usual last minute rush got me to Central Station with moments to spare. However, as it turns out, Countrylink trains require bikes to be prebooked and in a bike box. Hence, the 9:30 train to Muswellbrook was a fail. Luckily CityRail runs a later train so I didn’t have to wait to the full 24hrs. On the down side, I would ride out of Muswellbrook in the dark at 6:30pm.
No matter, the sense of adventure won out and I set off with fluoros and lights for the country roads (extra weight!). Even the back roads had too many cars until I got past the coal mine, then finally I found peace and quiet.
Phipps Cutting is a picnic area off Bylong Valley Way. Not amazing for a campsite but by that time I was stoked to get horizontal wherever it was, and slept amazingly.
Day 2 Phipps Cutting to other side of Nullo Mt
In the early morning light, the smooth and tarred road up Widden Valley and past the prestigious horse stud farm was a beautiful (and cruisy) start to the day.
Roadside fences are rarely done here, so the cows are on and off on the road. I got a massive fright when a whole herd came stampeding towards me. My panic rose as they got within three metres before they came to a screeching halt, then all just stopped to stare at me! They had grass hanging out of their mouths but seemed so flabbergasted, they didn’t even finish their mouthfuls.
The road past Widden was beautiful, but the wet, sandy surface and 2% grade wiped off the already slow speed I was making with the loaded bike. I made a rookie error as the creek was dry by the time I went to fill the bottles, doh! So I enjoyed it twice as I went back downstream to refill.
With excitement I made it to the Wollemi National Park, Myrtle Ck Trail, about 24hrs after I left home. Immediately, I felt I had the place to myself with no tracks, litter or noise. So liberating! The picturesque trail followed the creek, undulating towards Nullo Mt.
It wasn’t long (I’d give it one bend) before the undulations grew and I was off the bike and pushing. On the main climb, there were parts so steep my feet were slipping when I tried to walk and push the bike at the same time. I soon realised the only way to make forwards progress (instead of backwards progress sliding down the hill), was to plant both feet, bench press the loaded bike an arms length up the hill, replace my feet 30cm further up, and repeat. Again. And again. And again. Nobody said this was going to be easy! I’m normally a very calm person, but there were a few curses that day!
I collapsed on the ground at Keith’s lookout for lunch, and the incredible view took my mind off the 600 vertical metre climb for a time. I struggled to finish the giant chunks of my rationed cheese, and I began to realise one reason why my bags were so heavy – way too much food!
I thought the main climb was over, but there was more fun in store! The gradient now was slightly less, but it was clay mud with the properties of superglue. It stuck to the tyres and as they passed through the bike frame, the clay built up then gripped the wheels so tightly I couldn’t even push the bike downhill. This happened almost immediately, and every few steps I would have to unclog the clay. I decided that pushing the bike off the track – lifting over rocks, fallen logs and around bushes was better than the dreaded clay!
With whoops of glee, I eventually reached the plateau on top of Nullo Mountain! Sandy Hut is a perfect shelter for a camp next time but I wanted to push on further. Over Nullo Mt, the track passes through properties which feels a bit foreign after having the day to yourself, but the views at sunset just before descending off the mountain top were spectacular.
The descent is steep but tarred. Waiting in the valley below are loads of kangaroos, wallabies and a wombat enjoying a quiet evening. I turned off the track and found a cozy, sheltered camp site. I only lasted till 7:30pm before crashing out for the night!
Day 3: Base of Nullo Mt to near Grassy Mt
I had a rough start today. It was a freezing morning, I had a killer headache (thanks caffeine withdrawal!) and faced the joy of 10kms of corrugations to kick off the day. The brain shake did no wonders for my headache.
Luckily the surface improved after turning towards Dunns Swamp, I found a coffee sachet in my bag and life was good again! Dunns Swamp was busy for the long weekend, and I greeted the local campers to offload my excess food – I wasn’t about to carry anything extra up the next mountain!
The road meandered through beautiful Aussie eucalypt forest and wide farming valleys. Just past Kelgoola, there was a couple on quad bikes herding cattle along the road towards me. I tried to get out of the way so moved into the neighbouring field. As it turns out, the cows were so curious they came running after me and into the field anyway. So much for trying to help!
I had some extra time so took a detour to Mt Corricudgy. I left some gear at the bottom and rode up the mountain. It was a steady climb which I could ride the whole way, though it was still 500m vertical. Near the top there were enormous tree ferns towering over me, and an impressive blue gum forest. An eagle took my breath away, soaring nearly at eye level and pausing in the trees nearby. The mountain top was so densely forested though, there was hardly any view out.
I hooned down the hill to my lunch stop at the base where I would check the map for the afternoon’s route… Wait, where is the map? Seriously, where is the map!? The map was waiting patiently near the top of the hill where it fell off over a bump. Aargh!! The second climb up Mt Corricudgy was not nearly as enjoyable as the first… Good training at least!
With my unintended hill repeats complete, I headed into the next section of bushland – the Army Track and the Glen Alice Trail. Wow, these are incredible trails to ride. At sunset, the red glow illuminated the cliffs to the east, while there were overhangs and rock walls on my right, with lush ferns and forest all around.
I had a few moments of paranoia. It was getting dark and I was a bit nervous because I hadn’t managed to contact the land owner where the track comes out and there were numerous warning signs for private property. I kept seeing wild dogs disappearing into the bushes. I briefly rode with a stick in hand just in case the dogs decided to come back with friends until I collected myself and calmed down!
It got too dark to ride so I pulled off the track to find a spot to camp. It was so steep the best I could do was a comically bad spot – on a slope, a root poking up vertically, and full of large holes. But a 10% slope beats a 30% slope so I took it, and unsurprisingly managed a great sleep in any case!
Day 4: near Glen Alice to Ben Bullen Trail
The last of the Glen Alice Trail was just as spectacular at sunrise as it was at sunset. More cliffs, golden colours, lush forest and solitude. The climb up Grassy Mt kept me warm. Some of the track volunteers had built a hut in a clearing on the mountain, it’s a beautiful spot with a view over the Capertee Valley far below.
The descent was very steep!! No way I was riding down there on my own with a loaded bike, so walking it was. The valley floor was still covered in frost by 9am (which explained why my hands were so painfully cold).
Nervously, I headed for the public road trying not to disturb the land owners. This failed abysmally when the herd of cows took fright and went galloping and moo-ing across the field! Please note I would never recommend doing this ride without contacting the landowners (out of respect, and to reduce anxiety!). It was only because the trip was so last minute that I couldn’t get hold of them in this case.
I breathed a sigh of relief to be on the main road, and a sigh of joy when I took in the vistas. This must honestly be one of the most spectacular roads in NSW, if not Australia. The blue sky is enormous, there are sheer cliffs on both sides with a wide, peaceful valley of farmland between. In the paddocks were cows, donkeys, sheep, goats, chickens and horses – which were a sight to behold in full gallop, glistening in the morning sun rays!
It only got better turning through Glen Alice towards Glen Davis, with all sorts of birdlife on display. The cliffs were closer now, forming spectacular pinnacles and plateaus. Glen Davis was a detour, but worth it just for the road there and back. If you’re a history buff, the town has some ruins from the mining days.
The final stretch of bushland was to Baal Bone Gap, and through Wolgan and Newnes State Forest to Lithgow. I’ve said this before, but wow, the Crown Ck Trail towards Baal Bone Gap is also incredible! But, the picturesque creek trail suddenly turns from 2% to 30% incline and the climb is on. This climb is ‘only’ 400m vertical so it’s slightly more manageable (or maybe I’ve eaten enough food to lighten the load!). I still arrive at Baal Bone Gap picnic area a huffing and puffing sweatball.
I was aiming for a peaceful, hidden camp but the park is buzzing with 4WDs and campers for the long weekend. I take the opposite tactic and plant myself near another family, at a lookout for the night. This is definitely the best camp so far. I arrive with the last rays of sunset gracing the valley, and spend the evening by a campfire gazing at the stars. I should definitely have moved my sleeping bag to the tent earlier though – when I picked it up, it was already covered in ice!
Day 5: Ben Bullen Track to Lithgow
I got moving early again to beat the 4WDs which are so popular here. I was stunned at the tracks they would get over! They are so steep I’d expect the cars to topple backwards up some roads. I get the feeling the 4WDers and I were each marvelling at how crazy the other one is.
There’s the ever-present climbing, and lots of mud, but otherwise non-eventful for the home stretch to Lithgow. I’ve just missed the train and the next one is 2hrs away, so I explore Lithgow (it’s culinary delights anyway!). I have the best spring roll vermicelli bowl of my life, shortly followed by caramel mud cake and a coffee.
I mused over the trip on the train ride home. This was a really special one. Just the right amount of challenge and enjoyment, with so much variety. If you get the chance to visit that part of the world, you won’t regret it. Just make sure you pack light, then pack lighter!!